The Last Spike Club: Bikepacking Manitoba's North Star Line
Five riders, one abandoned rail line, and a quest to uncover the Interlake's best-kept cycling secret.
What do you get when you combine bikepacking companionship, car-free cycling, and the chance to be a founding member of something a little bit special? You get the Last Spike Club Adventure Cycling Society — five riders who dusted off one of the Interlake's hidden cycling gems, the North Star Line, for an overnight adventure.
A trail with history
My first experience on this abandoned rail line, running from Grosse Isle to Fisher Branch, dates back almost 20 years. Back then, it was home to a bike race with over 100 riders zipping through this well-treed, safe cycling treasure.
Since then, we've all gotten older — but our passion for riding has only intensified. Each of us is on a constant quest for the "best" places Manitoba has to offer. Our oldest Last Spike rider, pushing into his 70s, was the driving force behind this self-supported ride.
Grosse Isle to Inwood: the backstage pass
Arriving in Grosse Isle, we quickly located the community parking lot — a saving grace for vehicles, especially with two days of riding ahead. It was a stone's throw from the old railway station, and the moment we hit the trail, we were beaming.
We left Grosse Isle headed for the town of Inwood. What struck all of us early on was the trail itself. With the railway tracks removed decades ago, it still required some patience. But more than anything, the old railway revealed its quietness. We felt as if the Interlake had given us a backstage pass to its secret garden, for only us to ride.
The town of Inwood and its amenities were a welcome break. The food was exceptional, to say the least, and the attached general store had everything we needed. We packed extra drinks and goodies — including far too many desserts — for the remainder of the ride.
The curiosity and hospitality shown to our "Adventure Club" was genuinely welcoming, and we loitered for quite some time. Nobody seemed to mind. Neither us nor the locals were in much of a rush to get on with the day. The Inwood pace had us all thinking it's where we'd want to live.
Inwood to Broad Valley: the trail levels up
From Inwood, the trail improved considerably. Riding became much easier, with perfect conditions for a mountain bike, adventure bike with medium-sized tires, or anything in between. Even a gravel e-bike with extended range could work here. The intersections across public gravel roads were well-marked, and many locals stopped to offer assistance and encouragement along the way.
Our next break was in the hamlet of Broad Valley, where we found the cutest bed and breakfast, settled in a field of vegetables. The owners, Pete and Tannis, gave us a quick tour and replenished our bottles. Their B&B reminded me of the quaint rest stops you'd find in Vermont or Prince Edward Island. While our ride was planned to go further, this would be a perfect spot for a shorter overnight trip. We've got it on the list for next time — hopefully with more adventurers.
The quest begins
Leaving Broad Valley, we started having rather strange delusions. At first it was only me who thought old railway spikes were poking out of the gravel. But after the fifth sighting, we stopped to investigate. Sure enough — an old spike, pushing its way out of the trail surface.
Were the hands of time turning back, with the railway workers speaking to us through the spikes? Or were we just getting a bit dehydrated?
After some deliberation, we decided the quest was now to become members of the "Last Spike Club" and rekindle a connection with the railway's history.
Fisher Branch and the ghost trains
The last stretch into Fisher Branch saw trail conditions get even better. Not having a real plan, we chose to set up camp on the school grounds, sheltered by a tree belt. Following a hearty dinner at the Fisher Branch Hotel, it was lights out by 9 p.m. — with distant sounds of ghost trains in our dreams and spikes being tapped into rail lines.
Our return trip started with a hearty breakfast at the Fisher Branch Hotel and a delightful conversation with locals who encouraged us to return as many times as we wanted. Riding back on the same route, we all found our spikes — with a few to spare, which we left for the next members.
With only one small bike issue along the way (a flat tire), it was a worry-free ride. Knowing we had rest stops naturally built in made it even easier.
The beginning, not the end
Riding into Grosse Isle, our adventure was over. Yet with the final group photo, we realized this wasn't the end — it was the beginning. A beginning to bring more adventure cyclists, of all shapes, ages, and sizes, to Manitoba's Interlake in their quest to become members of the Last Spike Club.
Are you ready to join the adventure?
Route: Grosse Isle to Fisher Branch (and back) via the North Star Line
Distance: Overnight out-and-back
Best for: Mountain bikes, adventure/gravel bikes, gravel e-bikes
Highlights: Inwood general store, Broad Valley B&B, Fisher Branch Hotel, railway spike hunting
Difficulty: Moderate — varied trail surface, well-marked road crossings
Parking: Community lot in Grosse Isle, near the old railway station
